"Should I get this graded?" is the question we hear most. Grading can turn a $30 card into a $150 slab, or it can turn a $30 card into a $30 slab that cost you an extra $40 to make. Here's the simple math we use on every card before it goes to PSA.
Step 1: Find the real raw price
Look up sold listings (not asking prices) for the ungraded card in the condition you actually have. That's your raw value.
Step 2: Find the graded price you'd realistically get
Look up sold prices for the card as a PSA 9 and a PSA 10. Be honest here: most pack-fresh modern cards land at 9, not 10. Centering, whitening on the back edges and surface scratches all knock a grade down.
Step 3: Add up your costs
- The grading fee for the service level you need (check PSA's current price list, since it changes)
- Shipping to the grader and back, plus insurance
- Selling fees when the slab sells (often 13% or more on marketplaces)
Step 4: Do the check
Graded price − selling fees − grading and shipping costs should be clearly higher than raw price − selling fees. If it only works when you assume a PSA 10, it's a gamble, not a plan.
Cards that are usually worth grading
- Vintage holos in strong condition
- Modern alt arts, SARs and chase cards with a big gap between raw and PSA 10 prices
- Cards you want to keep long term, since a slab protects them
Cards that are usually better sold raw
- Commons, uncommons and most regular holos
- Cards with visible whitening, off-center fronts or surface scratches
- Cards where the PSA 9 price is about the same as the raw price
Skip the gamble
Want the card without the grading risk? Shop our raw singles. Every one is pictured front and back so you can judge the condition yourself.